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Perms have come a long way since the 80s when I was addicted to the very fake-y, 'crimped' perms. These days perms can be fine-tuned to give you exactly the kind of wave you want. You can get perms that just add body to fine, limp hair, you can get loose, sexy waves or you can go for the corkscrew curls that many straight-haired girls covet (and some curly-all-their-lives girls are sick of).
But who's the best candidate for perms? How long do they last & most importantly, how do you avoid getting the perm YOU DON'T WANT? The following are 10 rules to live by when it comes to perms in this day & age:
Who should get them? Perms work best on hair that has been minimally colored. This means highlights are ok, full color too. The chemicals are too harsh for double-processed or heavily highlighted hair. Not sure if your hair is a good candidate for a perm? Ask your stylist. You'll want to tell him or her every chemical process your hair has been through. One way you can find out if your hair is damaged & can't withstand more chemical processing is to do the old float trick. Take a few strands of hair and put them in a glass of water, if they sink, this means your hair is damaged & is soaking up moisture. If the strands float, this means your hair is healthy. You may want to keep it that way & avoid the perm....
Oh & one other tip: The thicker your hair, the better the perm will take.
How long does a perm take? 1-2 hours, depending on how long your hair is & how fast your stylist is. Your stylist will apply a one chemical solution to break the structural bonds in your hair, and another called a ‘neutralizer' to re-form the bonds & alter your hair's texture. Also keep in mind, a perm takes 28 hours to settle, you won't have the full style impact until then.
How long does a perm last? Generally about 3 to 5 months. After 3 months re-perm your roots so they match the rest of your hair.
Where do I find a great stylist? First call ahead to your salon (or try several salons) and ask if they have someone who specializes in perms. Since perms aren't as popular as they were in their heyday (the 80s) you'll want someone who knows what she (or he's) doing.
Don't leave home without your picture. You need to take a picture or pictures with you of the type of wave you want. Just telling your stylist what kind of curl leaves you in jeopardy of getting super-dooper tight ringlets. Stylists can control the amount of wave they give you as well as the the part of the hair they want to perm. Yours will need to choose the right-sized rods.
A sit down consultation beforehand is a must. So many stylists will whisk you off to wet your hair without sitting down face to face for a good talk. Be sure & tell your stylist not only what you want (show the pictures) but what you don't want (i.e. the crimp-like curls of the 80s).
The tightness of the curl depends on the size of the rod. If you're worried you'll end up with too-tight curls, ask your stylist to show you the types of rods she is using, along with the ones she has available. It never hurts to ask questions…
Some hair is trickier to curl than others. If you are African- or Asian-American, then you will want someone who specializes in curling your type of hair.
You can prep your hair. To prepare your hair for a perm, you'll want to use a protein conditioning treatment as well as a regular moisturizing conditioner after you shampoo. But don't deep condition your hair for at least 24 hours before the perm, otherwise the perm may not take.
Post-perm care. After your perm, shampoo with ammonium-based shampoos (good ones are Matrix Perm Fresh & Nexxus Rejuv-A-Perm).
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